Around the island of Ko Pan Gan
One of the best kept secrets of Ko Pan Gan is its natural beauty. There's more to the island than the beach parties at Haad Rin and the chilled out bungalows on other beaches. In fact one of the best ways to experience Ko Pan Gan is to go hiking on the coastal trails or hire a motorbike to go exploring.
Ko Pan Gan is large enough to escape, small enough to see in a day and covers about 170kms2. It's highest point is 627m above sea level, and the interior is a brilliant nature landscape of hills and lush forest almost all year round. Even in the dry season you can find waterfalls, streams and green jungle to get lost in.
From Haad Rin - which is party central - you can start by following the 4km trail over the hilly coast to the north and onto Haad Yuan and Haad Thian, both of which are reachable by boat only. This trail might be a bit hard to find but ask around and you can practically follow it all the way to Haad Namtok (waterfall beach) which is accessible in the dry season by a rough road. A walking trail connects this road with the cool Haad Sadet - which is also accessible by road. The excellent local map displays these trials.
If you rent a bike you can follow a roller-coaster road west over the hills towards Tong Sala, which is the main town on the island and where the ferry arrives. It passes through Baan Khaay and Baan Tai which are both one of the few parts of the island with settlements stretching inland from the coast and you can explore the roads here that wind through the coconut groves. There are a few attractions here, such as the 'biggest tree on Ko Pan Gan', as well as in interesting temple and chedi, and lookout. The road also begins here to access the northeast of the island and it's a wicked ride up through the hills in green jungle, leading eventually to Haad Tong Naay Pan.
You can survive this route on a Honda Dream or even a mountain bike if you're fit and it's really worth the effort. Two roads lead off this, heading down to the small beaches mentioned above, but they can be difficult, especially the one leading to Haad Namtok. The route down to Haad Sadet follows a cascading waterfall which was visited by King Rama V more than hundred years ago, and it has some chilled spots to stop off at.
If you prefer to head into Tong Sala you can visit the local market, get your internet fix, arrange travel and other services which are also available at the beaches. Take the sealed road north to Chalaoklam bay which is still very much a traditional Thai fishing community and cool chance to hang out with the locals. There are a few dive shops here and places to stay, or you can catch a longtail to the secluded Haad Khuad (Bottle Beach) on the North Shore. From Chalaoklam bay you can follow a round trip route that follows the Northwest coast of Ko Pan Gan and passes the small island of Koh Maa - joined to the mainland by a sandy beach and a good place for solo snorkelling.
There's quite a few cool beaches in this area, some have a few upmarket resorts on but the atmosphere is chilled and completely different to Haad Rin and the south. You can stay here and catch a taxi mini-bus to the full moon parties and avoid all the crowds. Haad Salad, Haad Yow and Chao Phao bay are all found here. As you head south again you come to a flatter part of Ko Pan Gan, full of coconut plantations and small beaches and bays that aren't as easy to swim in. Quite a few resorts are hidden here, near Wogtum bay, with their own tiny beaches. This area has quite a few inland roads to explore (great for cycling) as well as the relaxing and peaceful Laem Son Lake.
There is a waterfall in the middle of Ko Pan Gan on the way to Chalaoklum bay, called Phaeng Waterfall and nearby is a marble Buddha. Further up the road you come to Khao Raa retreat where you can find the trail to the highest point of the island - which is quite a hike. Also on the road north, as it descends into Chalaoklum bay is paradise waterfall where they some times hold half moon or dark moon parties as well as the colourful Chinese temple which can be seen from the road and is interesting.
Getting your booties off the beach to go exploring Ko Pan Gan is really worth it, and you realise this island has more character than you thought. Some people never want to leave and we know one German character who has been living as a hippie on Haad Rin for almost 15 years!
