Discovering Ang Thong archipelago
The Ang Thong archipelago - a pristine marine park
By Lesley Chittayanon
Consisting of around 40 small islands and just 27kms from Koh Samui, Ang Thong Archipelago is a scene of incomprehensible beauty. The group of irregular limestone karsts jut out of the emerald sea in a haphazard arrangement with a verdant carpet softening the jagged contours of the mountains and glowing fringes of white sand defining the shoreline.
All of the islands are uninhabited, apart from one, Lok Paluay, which is home to a band of sea-gypsies, or chaolay as they are known locally. These sea-faring nomads can be found along many isolated stretches of coastline in the south of Thailand, and have their own distinct culture based around animistic beliefs. They make their living from fishing, often using very primitive equipment with great skill. Despite cultural differences including their own language, the sea gypsies have lived in harmony with other Thai religions for many centuries.
The islands’ topography provides the ultimate tropical adventure playground. Caves, lagoons and hidden natural treasures spark images of classic desert island movies. Opportunities for exploration and discovery are endless. An arduous climb on Koh Mae Ko (Mother Island) is well rewarded with views of an emerald saltwater lake fully enclosed by a ring of towering limestone cliffs and connected to the sea by an underground tunnel.
Ang Thong translates as ‘golden bowl’, and refers to this isolated lake which resembles a brilliant gleaming bowl, protected by the encircling mountains. Many of the islands are named after their distinguishing features, including ‘Sleeping Cow Island’ and ‘Three Pillar Island’. Some islands have passageways leading to lofty peaks where panoramic views across Ang Thong Archipelago allow visitors the chance to appreciate this spectacular natural creation in its entirety.
Ang Thong Archipelago is a national park, which means the islands’ wildlife is protected and allowed to flourish in an untouched environment. The wooded areas of the park can be classified as dry evergreen forest, beach forest and limestone forest. Dry evergreen forest dominates the larger islands, beach forest provides shade on the beach, and limestone forest sprouts from the soil covered areas of the mountains.
The movie 'The Beach' was inspired by Ang Thong
Only small animals inhabit the islands, and the 16 species of mammals include otters, langurs, crab-eating monkeys, hogs and silver haired bats. Dolphins and whales have also been spotted off shore. More than 54 species of bird, 14 species of reptile and five species of amphibians also reside in the national park. The surrounding water is teeming with tropical fish, crabs, oysters and a rainbow of coral carpets the sea floor.
The sheer scale of the archipelago means it is possible to find secluded beaches away from the crowds, where you can concoct your own desert island fantasy. The islands are a great spot for water based activities such as kayaking and snorkelling. Kayakers can paddle through mysterious caves and examine the fascinating stalactite dripstones at close range. Snorkelling provides a window to view the thriving underwater world of vibrant colour and curious form.
Koh Sam Sao boasts a massive coral reef, and is a popular with snorkellers. This hilly island is also a great place to admire a panoramic view of the national park. The most rewarding time to snorkel in the Ang Thong Archipelago is from late March until October; this is when visibility is at its best. However, the islands can be visited all year round, with only the monsoon season occasionally disrupting the sunshine from September until November.
Accommodation is available at the National Park Headquarters in Koh Wua Talap, in the form of basic bungalows. However, most visitors arrive on daytrips. Travelling to the archipelago by speedboat means you can explore the islands in a smaller group and avoid the masses. The large tour boats carry up to 50 people, and involve transferring to a longtail boat in order to reach the island of choice
Photographers will get lost in the scenery. From the karst-silhouetted seascapes to the mountainous interiors and the abundant wildlife, this stunning setting certainly isn’t camera shy. The most popular activity on the islands is simply enjoying their incredible beauty and tranquillity. The islands’ sandy shores provide a relaxing haven for soaking up the sun’s glorious rays and contemplating this tropical paradise.
